CHAIN PROBLEM...
Thread started by
eddieboyinla at 05.20.08 - 12:45 pm
...I HAVE OFFICIALLY DICIDED THAT MY BIANCHI SUCKS, ALL 9 GEARS ON THE BACK ARE SLIPPING/CLICKING, IVE REPLACED THE CHAIN, THE REAR DERAILER, CABLES, AND CABLE HOUSING, AND I CAN NOT GET RID OF THIS PROBLEM, I'VE PUMPED OVER 75 DOLLARS INTO IT, IN 2 DAYS, IS IT WORTH THE HASSLE, CAN ANYBODY OFFER SOME ADVICE?
I KNOW THAT NOW I'VE OPENED THE DOOR TO ALL THE BULL SHIT ANSWERS.
I AM LOOKING FOR IS SOME SERIOUS RESPONSES.
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HE'S CEREUS GISE----------->
User105.20.08 - 12:49 pm
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I didn't hear anything about the cassette.
Also, go to the kitchen.
NEWB31005.20.08 - 12:53 pm
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or the Oven...
could be an old cassette/gears...could be not enough tension somewhere...
adrian05.20.08 - 12:56 pm
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or even a bent derailleur
adrian05.20.08 - 12:59 pm
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If the back cassette has gunk in it, take the back wheel of and scrub the gears out with an old toothbrush and some water. also make sure the tension on the derailer cables is not super tight.
another thing, see if you might be running the wrong chain or one that is worn out. if the chain is stretched it will have trouble meshing with your cassette since its longer than it should be.
they can check all of this for you at the kitchen
stillline05.20.08 - 1:03 pm
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I TYPE SEE! NO PROBLEM!!!
User105.20.08 - 1:08 pm
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Check to see if the cassette is really worn.
Also, Eddie-- I've seen you shift like 3 gears at a time under full load. This isn't good for the bike, and it's not the proper way to shift. Shift one gear at a time and do not shift under full load. If you need to shift while climbing, just ease off the mashing and give a nice light pedal stroke or two til' it shifts. Then resume mashing if desired.
kyber05.20.08 - 1:15 pm
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SOMETIMES ITS GOOD TO HEAR OTHER PEOPLES OBSERVATIONS, I WILL ADMIT THAT I MAKE MISTAKES ALSO, SO ALL ADVICE GIVEN WILL BE TRIED BY ME, THANKS.
eddieboyinla05.20.08 - 1:28 pm
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"Check to see if the cassette is really worn."
Bingo.
You probably rode a stretched chain and ground out the pitch on the cassette. You'll need to replace it. To avoid this in the future, replace your chain every 3,000 miles or so.
(Sounds like you replaced every possible part except the right one.)
And check to see if your caps lock is on.
City Hobgoblin05.20.08 - 2:12 pm
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gee hobgoblin, i stretched you out a long time ago, you don't see me replacing you.
sexy05.20.08 - 2:32 pm
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Yeah, Eddie. Check the cassette. If the cassette is worn, changing the chain actually makes the grinding worse.
Chains are cheap by comparision. I try to change mine every couple of years.
Creative Thing05.20.08 - 2:54 pm
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i am truely amazed by the over whelming response, and thanks again about the cassete.
eddieboyinla05.20.08 - 3:35 pm
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Running a new chain on worn cassette or chainrings will actually ruin a chain in fairly short order. Generally, if you re replacing the cassette for wear, you need to replace the chainrings, too. A bent erailleur hanger can also make it very difficult to get a chain to stay on one cog. There are lots of potential causes for your problem. If you post a high quality close up picture of the gears on the cassette and your chainrings, it may be possible to tell just how worn they are.
ideasculptor05.20.08 - 4:28 pm
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I HAVE TO DE-COMMISSION THE BIANCHI, THE PROBLEM IS I CAN NOT FIND A FREEWHEEL THAT HAS 8 GEARS, I WANT A MEGA-GEAR ON IT THE SHIFT FOR THE REAR GEARS, 'CLICKS' AT 8 POSITIONS,
eddieboyinla05.21.08 - 1:20 am
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8 speed is barely a decade old, you shouldn't have much trouble finding an 8 speed cassette. If memory serves, XTR and DuraAce went 9 speed in 1996, maybe even 1997
ideasculptor05.21.08 - 2:13 am
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sexy:
"gee hobgoblin, i stretched you out a long time ago, you don't see me replacing you."
damn. nice shot.
City Hobgoblin05.21.08 - 10:12 am
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Rather then start a new thread, thought I'd try here first:
Had trouble with my old cassette. Figured it was time to replace it anyways since I had a new set of wheels to put on. The old one was an 8-speed 25-12 and it would skip the 13 and drop right into the 12, didn't matter what ring I was on up front. I wanted to go bigger so I got a 32-11. The derailleur on there just barely works but I'm having the same issue - it skips the second smallest gear and drops right into the last. I have good shifting in all the other gears. Replaced the chair as well. Cable looks good although it's old. This is my last option before I replace the derailleur itself.
Any thoughts???
DetroitRider06.10.08 - 7:29 pm
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When it comes to drive trains skipping and jumping there are a few things to check (since you've already replaced stuff, I'll skip some of the more obvious things):
- Your cassette is worn if it look like a defanged dog - the teeth are chipped, work down, or broken. Like everyone else says above, if your cassette is fucked, git a new one.
- You may have too long of a chain. A chain that is too long will "wag" when you ride in the easy gears. The rear deraileur will swing from side to side while you pedal, and this will cause the chain to drop into harder gears right in the middle of an intense hill climb. Check to make sure your chain is the right length - shift into the big chain rings in the front and back, and see how much slack there is in the chain.
- Your rear deraileur is fucked, or it needs a little adjustment. Check that mutha out. Clean it off, make sure it is hanging right. A bent derailleur arm ruins everything. I've saved one or two rear derailleur arms removing the jockey wheels and by flattening the plates of a bent rear derailleur arem with eine hammer or in a vise with some big wrenches.
- Your rear derailleur -hanger- is bent - this is common if you park at one of those shitty wheel bender racks, or if people bang their bike into your derailleur while parking next to you. The hangers are aluminium (unless yours is part of the frame). I've bent one back into shape long enough to ride around on before ordering a replacement from my bicycle frame manufacturer.
ubrayj0206.11.08 - 12:00 am
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another culprit is when the top pulley is too close or too far from the cogs. The distance of the pulley affects the angle of the chain when you shift, which affects whether the chain actually shifts or not. The effect is most pronounced in the smallest cogs. There is a screw that lets you adjust the distance the pulley sits from the cog, but changing it affects all the other rear derailleur adjustments, so you need to be reasonably competent with rear der adjustments. You generally want the top pulley a few millimeters below the smallest cog when shifted to the smallest cog. It is always the first adjustment I make.
That said, a bent cage or a bent derailleur hanger can have exactly the same effect.
ideasculptor06.11.08 - 1:32 am
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this is about when i take my bike to a qualified bike mechanic and say fix it.
indigis06.11.08 - 6:30 am
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So I'm working on a SS project and bought a single speed chain. When I mounted my rear wheel... and looped the chain around... i noticed that it was short. I'm running a 50x18t. Maybe cause I have a 50t? So.. I got some links from my old chain and (new and old chain is 3/32) added them. But... the points where the new and old chains meet feel rock hard and is hard to move up and down and as it's making it's way around the SS freewheel and crank... it doesn't sound smooth. I lubed it up and tried moving if up and down but it's barely moving. I'll keep working it. Basically... is this natural when joining two chains? And if I ride it.... will it eventually just work itself out? Thanks!
digablesoul08.26.08 - 8:21 am
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You have a frozen link/links. With you thumb on the end of the frozen pin, wiggle the link towards and away from your body, Then wiggle the chain up and down (normal chain travel). That should loosen the chain.
Single Speed specific chains are usually 1/8, so double check. If everything fails you can use a 9/10 speed chain, should be fine.
sc_nomad08.26.08 - 8:39 am
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Cool... I'll definitely do the thumb wiggle away from me. Never thought of that.
Al
digablesoul08.26.08 - 9:04 am
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