Argentina
Thread started by
la duderina at 04.23.09 - 11:31 pm
Hello - I am La Duderina and you are not.
Anywho, have any bike riders here been to Buenos Aires? I'm going for 6 weeks and have been contemplating bringing a bicycle if it will be worth it, but this is what I have heard so far:
"A street painted with 4 lanes is driven on as though there are 7 lanes"
"Drivers do not allow pedestrians the right of way, driving directly into crosswalks full of pedestrians"
"Drivers in Buenos Aires are typically much more aggressive than in United States and fail to recognize rules of the road."
All of these statements have been taken from the state department website, native Argentinians, and others who have visited. None of these people are cyclists and all of them are unaware of my cycling experience.
So, before NOT taking a bike, I would like to hear from a Cyclist's perspective that Buenos Aires is entirely unfit for bicycle riding.
The mere fact that there are numerous bicycle tours in BA is what is casting doubt on all the information pertaining to cycling so far, and I could rent, but all I've been able to find is beach cruisers, which are entirely unsuited for riding in a city setting.
So, uh, has anyone here been there before? Even if you haven't, your well-supported opinion would be appreciated. fanks!
reply
I've never been and this isn't about Argentina, but here's an excerpt from the
Riding the Spine journal:
"...Starting at the Artic Sea, we have been constantly and consistently warned about the drivers with whom we will have to share the road further south. First were the “extreme truckers” on the haul road, whose loads are double long and oversize, and who literally own the road. Then the “crazy cannucks” whose country is so sparsely populated the mere idea of traffic paralyzes them, and therefore don’t worry about little things like lanes and turn signals. Next, “those Americans” who drive too much and too fast, “and they all have guns….” Followed by “the Mexicans” who “have no laws down there” and so on until we learned to tune it out, as we do a large percentage of the advice we receive: “don’t go that way – the road is terrible – you’ll never make it” etc.
Sure, drunk driving is a national past time in Mexico, and first time RVers up in Alaska, tend to leave their steps down (blocking/sweeping the shoulder), but the vast majority of drivers we have encountered have been competent, and courteous. “South of the border,” drivers, forced into awareness by the condition of the roads, and used to sharing them with non-cars, are in general good drivers. And thanks to the cost and relative novelty of cars, drivers are much more likely to be professionals. People who drive for a living, tend to be good/safe behind the wheel. In general, our pavement experiences have been much mellower than the advice-givers would have us fear..."
But then he goes on to rant about how dangerous the Honduras highways are...so whatever. I just thought that opening paragraph was similar to your situation right now.
The Riding the Spine guys probably have a couple of months before they reach Argentina.
wiz_vanmeter04.24.09 - 12:33 am
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hi
i am of the opinion that cycling in benos airs would be very dangerous.
as you know austria is upside down people sleep hanging from their feet of hooks in the ground there
benos airs is on the same part of the globe but on the opposite side at the same time I'm worried this means that
Everything is upside down there Everything is backwards
It could be the same continent as australia but maybe it's not
I don't think you should go there its just not a good place 4 girls
Calvin04.24.09 - 12:54 am
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From what I've gathered, riding in that city isn't safe at all. I have a friend who lives there who says it's not worth it on a bike.
6 weeks is a long time. What about touring the countryside by bike? -
Don't cry for me, La Duderina?
Joe Borfo04.24.09 - 1:23 am
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Calvin, you're right. I won't be safe. Because I am a girl. I think I'll stay home then.
Borfo - Much obliged. I'm also getting the feeling it will be a tad too chilly for much bike riding anyways. Plus, bringing a bike down there seems like a huge hassle. Then what if it gets damaged and all that. Think I will be better just checking out the bike tours and renting one if I find a cool spot to ride.
rayrayray - mara salvatrucha esta aqui, tambien hombre. ¿y qué?
la duderina04.24.09 - 1:44 am
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I spent a week and a half in Buenos Aires a couple years back. I didn't ride there, but I did see a
few bikes on the streets during non-peak traffic hours. The only place I saw more than a few was in the
"ghetto" areas, late at night.
If you can find an email address for one of the cycling Buenos Aires sites, I'd suggest pretending that you're a tourist who's already there with concerns about safety on the streets. Ask where you could ride to safely, etc.
The streets of Buenos Aires aren't all madness all the time. Getting into a cab there wasn't as "exciting" as it was in other big cities in South America. Compared to, say, La Paz or Lima, the drivers were downright courteous. That's not saying much, though. I would expect to get honked at, a lot.
nathansnider04.24.09 - 1:50 am
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My jaw is on the floor right now from looking at those photos. Thank you so much for posting that. Wow. You are one brave soul Mr. Snider!
Where did you stay in BA?
la duderina04.24.09 - 2:06 am
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well sorry i guess u didnt reed what i wrote
my friend who is a reliable source says things are upside down by the time you get there and i hear the girls will shake you down good. plus its not really safe for a lady especially not for 6 weeks? does your mom let you do this? its two places same time! two places! be carefull god bless
Calvin04.24.09 - 2:19 am
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a street that is 4 lanes is 7 lanes in benos airs
do you understand what is being said here
7 LANES
you need more education in world stuff
Calvin04.24.09 - 2:21 am
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@duderina
Heh, thanks! I stayed at a hostel in the Microcentro (I think is what they called the downtown?) on Hipolito Yrigogen - Portal del Sur, or something like that. Nice place as hostels go. Dunno if you're up for six weeks of bunkbed living, but if so, it ain't bad for that.
nathansnider04.24.09 - 2:41 am
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Also, re-reading the caption on my flickr page (because I'm vain like that), I'm reminded that I still have the Lonely Planet guide for BA. You're certainly welcome to borrow it if you want.
nathansnider04.24.09 - 2:43 am
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i cant understand u peeple why would you stay in a place called a hostil that means they don't like you
? do you think u can just ride your bike anywhere and god won't tell you things
? hes telling you to do something, and not to goto austria you should pay attention. god is watching you dont play with bikes eat a hot dog. GODZILLABLESS ladies respect that and wear a clothes.
?
????
Calvin04.24.09 - 3:20 am
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two places
!
same time!
TWO PLACES
Calvin04.24.09 - 3:21 am
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i like u mr borfo but its the same time even if you dont like it
?
the same time
god bless!
Calvin04.24.09 - 3:25 am
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That's awesome that you're going to spend some time in Argentina. I was there for two weeks this past Thanksgiving, and again at the end of February. The first time I stayed in Palermo, which is now a trendy spot of town. The second time, I was in Barracas which is near downtown and Puerto Madero.
There are people who bike in Buenos Aires, but mostly people ride beach cruisers or road bikes outside the city. I don't know if there's a bike scene there remotely close to ours. Most people in the city use bikes either as a simple mode of transportation or use them for city tours. I have seen one hipster riding a fixie or singlespeed, which I think was the rare exception. I took one of the bike tours starting from Palermo, and it was a lot of fun. If you're comfortable riding on the streets here, you'll probably will be fine if you plan to bring your bike. However, you will have to deal with poor road conditions and fairly aggressive drivers. There are a lot of cobblestone roads, so there are no road bikes inside the city. You can't ride on the sidewalk either because they're pretty jacked up too. You'll see if you spend time walking on them. I was constantly tripping up on roots and uneven concrete plates.
My recommendation would be to not ship your bike there. You could probably buy one cheap. There are a few bike shops that sell beach cruiser type single speeds or bmx bikes. There is a lot of crime and corruption in B.A., so you should take that into consideration also. I haven't had any bad experiences while I was down there, but I did talk to a lot of people who were robbed in populated areas. Don't fight back, because most muggers aren't afraid to kill there. I'm not trying to scare you, because it depends on what area of town you're in, but you just have to be careful.
If you end up going, have fun! The exchange rate is really favorable for us right now.. around 1 dollar to 3.64 argentine peso. Much better than a couple of months ago.
will04.24.09 - 7:58 am
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Yeah that would be awesome if I could borrow that book Nathan! Thanks everyone for all of the awesome info it really helped. I am staying in Palermo. In the process of reserving an apartment there. I was going to stay in San Telmo but I was warned otherwise so I am switching to Palermo. It's such a bummer that its not as bike friendly as LA since BA is so small. A bike seems to me to be the ideal way to get around that city but oh well. Think I will do the whole renting thing...less hassle for sure.
la duderina04.24.09 - 10:33 am
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oh oh oh!! There is hope!!
"Cyclists aren't that uncommon in Buenos Aires - which is always a good sign, drivers are used to dealing with bikes on the road and once you work the rules of the game out its actually a great way to get around the city."
You can find a
forum on anything this days
so exciting.
la duderina04.24.09 - 2:11 pm
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Wow, Nathan you been to the Caporales in Bolivia? Nice!!
I love those fiestas... they're huuuuuge and the costumes/attire is amazing. All those beautiful colors.
I hope you got to visit Machu Pichu while you were down there.
GodLovesUgly04.24.09 - 2:31 pm
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i went there for six weeks in 2006 to visit my family. they live in rosario but i did go to buenos aires for a day. basically no cars obey lights and stop signs, so i don't think i'd ever try to ride around there. maybe the rural areas, but not the cities.
have a great time! buenos aires is too busy for me, but it definitely is beautiful. i also visited cordoba- you must go! or mendoza is supposed to be amazing too.
best part- everyone greets you with a kiss.
tomato04.24.09 - 2:33 pm
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here's a pic i took of che's bike in alta gracia...
tomato04.24.09 - 2:38 pm
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what the heck is on there? A motor? das cool...
Joe Borfo04.24.09 - 2:41 pm
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hey there duderina,
i lived in argentina (about 30 minutes away from buenos aires) over 10 years ago and from what i can remember i dont think that there is any way i would try to ride down there.
first off, if you have a nice bike, there is a good chance you will get mugged for it, so if you do take a bike, bring one that you wouldnt mind losing. (for example, my brother was held at knife point for just being blonde (so therefore they assumed he had money) and my father was forced to hand over all his money to the police (his first day back in the country) just because they stopped him and told him to).
buses speed through red lights (i am surprised i was never in an accident). cars swerve and speed consistently through traffic. i used to have to dodge through cars to cross the street because they will not stop for pedestrians. i also cant recall any friends of mine that owned a bike. its not that common.
ok, now lets say you plan on riding short distances or on trails or at a big park, you might be ok, but if you plan on riding to get around town, please be careful! i would not recommend it.
oh and not to be a debbie downer but the day i was supposed to fly back to the USA i saw an old man laying dead on the side of the road and no one was doing anything. he had been riding a bike.
actually, i am going to facebook some of my old argentine classmates and family to see what they say. give me your email addy or add me on facebook (deborah famiglietti) and i will let you know what they say! hopefully things have changed for the better and it is not the same way it used to be.
either way you should have a blast in argentina. prepare to go dancing until 6am and party a lot. the food is great, especially if you like pizza and red meat...
deboRAWR04.24.09 - 3:18 pm
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Wow, I am so glad I decided to consult this forum with this question! Thank you deborawr. You confirmed exactly what I was thinking...that there are
places I can ride, but as far as transportation goes a bicycle would not be a good idea. I'm not too sure about getting in a cab or bus anymore, either! Your info was very helpful, thanks - I shall be contacting you soon with more questions!!
My dad, also a bike rider, wisely said, "Aren't you going down there to study?" haha..ok ok.. So yeah I'm just going to go down there, scope it out, see what's up but not worry too much about it. I have a whole life ahead of me to ride my bike in all kinds of places - where there is not such a high likelihood of death ;)
Thank every one of you for all of your info. I knew I could count on good ol' MR.
la duderina04.24.09 - 3:48 pm
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duderina, I'll be at LACM tonight if you want to swing by and grab the book. If that doesn't work, I'll let you know next time I'll be back in the neighborhood to arrange for drop off or pick up.
nathansnider04.24.09 - 4:03 pm
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nathan - that will work. what time will you be there?
la duderina04.24.09 - 4:46 pm
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WTF its two places TWO PLACES
do u think that old man was a pretty girl riding. he got mugged and god was telling him to get on the sidewalk and stop being a pretty girl. TWO PLACES
its not austria u know but it is u need to be careful and know your roll thats what god said.
its two places - dont try to bike there.
Calvin04.24.09 - 4:51 pm
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you cant bike there cause its two places
i mean, u can bike to two places, but its two places SAME TIME. no bike will take u to SAME TIME. se no possible that means not can be done in argentinian thats what the speak there, not german.
Calvin04.24.09 - 4:58 pm
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holy shit...whatever you are smoking dont share it
pretti*ugli04.24.09 - 5:04 pm
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duderina, I'm planning to be there at 7, so let's say 7:15, real-world time.
nathansnider04.24.09 - 5:10 pm
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this is my first trip abroad and I'm making the trip alone. Friends in the program are getting there a day after me...all alone in a whole different country that speaks a different language... I didn't practice my Spanish enough...I'm nervous.
la duderina responding to a
comment by deboRAWR
05.22.09 - 9:51 am
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You better go, or we're going to kick your ass.
Joe Borfo responding to a
comment by la duderina
05.22.09 - 9:53 am
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damn I'd kick my own ass!! That'd be a whole hell of a lot of $$ down the drain sheeyit.
I'm going and I'm sure I'll be fine, it's just the reality is sinking in now and I'm nervous.
la duderina responding to a
comment by Joe Borfo
05.22.09 - 9:56 am
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Oh please. You'll be better than fine. You'll get there, and it will be amazing. Bring back some stories, eh?
nathansnider responding to a
comment by la duderina
05.22.09 - 11:15 am
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Don't worry too much, especially if you're staying in Palermo. Some do speak English there; usually the younger people. You'll pick up Spanish pretty quickly too. You're definitely going to be eating well down there. Meat's always good, and you have to try the Argentine pizza too.
will05.22.09 - 1:30 pm
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I knew it...There are bicycles everywhere! everywhere I tell you! well at least in the 6 block radius Ive been around my apartment so far...going to find a bike shop now!
la duderina05.28.09 - 10:40 am
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Awesome!
And we want pictures, dammit!
Joe Borfo responding to a
comment by la duderina
05.28.09 - 10:43 am
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Where are you staying there? I was in Buenos Aires for 10 days and rented an orange bike there and rode the city, loved the place. Wonderful city and people.
Limeyfly responding to a
comment by la duderina
05.28.09 - 10:58 am
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I am in Palermo...I was looking up bike shops and read something about orange bikes! What type of bike was it? It wasn´t a beach cruiser was it?
la duderina responding to a
comment by Limeyfly
05.28.09 - 11:02 am
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NOBODY SAID BIG AND ORANGE!!!
haha nooooooooo
imachynna responding to a
comment by theroyalacademy
05.28.09 - 5:49 pm
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i'm glad you're having fun!
coldcut responding to a
comment by la duderina
06.7.09 - 5:33 pm
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omg...it is insane down here. in. sane.
I have seen tons of people on bikes, and a total of 3 were on hardcore road bikes wearing spandex and the whole lot....but I've decided not to risk death by riding a bike through the city, but I did locate the velodrome! watch me get on a fixed gear...hahaha but it would be on a track so it's ok.
la duderina responding to a
comment by coldcut
06.7.09 - 5:46 pm
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p.s. I know LA bikers don't have much, but come to BA you'll think LA is heaven. People who ride here are a little touched in the head, I say.
la duderina06.7.09 - 5:47 pm
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nice!
is traffic that bad?
i wonder how much track bikes go for down there? how much!?! haha.
coldcut responding to a
comment by la duderina
06.7.09 - 5:48 pm
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dude...I fear for my life just walking! I mean, I'm sure if I knew the streets better and knew which ones to take it wouldn't be so bad ...I mean I see people out there riding and if I was down here for an extended period of time I might do it, but I can hold out for 6 weeks. ...but seriously I would be too scared to DRIVE here!! as a matter of fact, I think I would rather ride a bike than drive a car here. omg...I'll try to get a video. I thought LA was bad....LA is nothing compared to this.
la duderina responding to a
comment by coldcut
06.7.09 - 5:54 pm
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god damn!!
in that case, be very safe while having fun!
coldcut responding to a
comment by la duderina
06.7.09 - 6:05 pm
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Be safe, sounds like you are having fun.
I have one question: Do you eat beef?
cabhauler06.7.09 - 6:15 pm
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i saw your pic, come back to LA :P
be safe!
aksendz responding to a
comment by la duderina
06.7.09 - 9:34 pm
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Sounds about right for the city, I hope the way the taxi driver in my video was driving shows you that the streets are highways down there.
check out the country side yet?
echo responding to a
comment by la duderina
06.8.09 - 12:41 pm
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No, seriously, have fun. Just don't let the Argentines give you a mullet.
nathansnider06.8.09 - 2:15 pm
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I made my first trip abroad there during the Argentine summer this year and it was awesome. I also stayed in Palermo Hollywood on Mte. Fitz Roy and Costa Rica street. Bikes are totally ok to ride around the city as long as you're smart about it. I rode a bike throughout Mendoza's wine country and had an excellent time pedaling from bodega to bodega and grubbing on the roadside parillada. Don't eat too much choripan, but DO try a SUPER PANCHO!! :)
Too bad now that 80% of AR's farmland has been converted to SOYBEAN crops, I can imagine finding a steak of Argentina's previous reputation will be a bit harder than when I went, but find one. Also, if you want to bring home one of the best malbecs you will ever taste, message me on myspace and i'll give you the scoop. Either way, have fun y buen dia! :)
P.S. - THE WATER IS SAFE.
profoscurity06.8.09 - 10:55 pm
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My dentist is Argentinian. Today, we discussed the Spanish Empire (and how it relates to Argentina), the Falkland War, the Argentinian revolution, the president and how no one listens to her, and 'traditional' careers in his country. He's a great dentist. Chatty, but cool.
SPOOK06.8.09 - 11:21 pm
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Im Argentinian and there not too thrilled about yankees. If you know castelhano spanish pretty well then you could probably blend in. These motherfuckers are riled and proud.
NOISEPOCKET06.15.09 - 10:16 am
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@la duderina
i lived in bsas for about 13 months in 2006-2007. i rode everywhere. all my friends rode everywhere. yeah, it's 'dangerous,' but so is la and nyc and philly and boston. cab drivers all over the world are asshole drivers (nice people though). if you're comfortable riding on the rode with cars, take your bike.
what kind of bike is it by the way? cuz if it's a super fancy racing bike, i wouldn't fuck with it. if it's just a toss around road bike that you absolutely love, take it.
i say you should TAKE YOUR BIKE AND RIDE ALLLLLL OVER THE CITY
TIPS:
1. most roads are 1 way: make sure to ride on the left side (cabs and buses don't pull over on the left side)
2. if you have presta valves, bring extra tubes and a pump conversion because although there are bicicleterias (bike shops) on every other block, they usually just stick to shrader tubes.
3. know spanish
4. get a map of the city.
5. riiiiiiiiiiiiiiide everywhere all the time. it's a fucking exciting city to ride in and you can cover so much ground. it's pretty much entirely flat and pretty. especially if you go into the less touristy caballito area..they have some nice parks and outdoor markets...the used book market is really rad.
email me if you have any other questions: latermeansnever@gmail.com
peace
-sean
ps. this gold doggy is my bike in buenos aires (se llama dora). i actually got it down there. when i moved back up here, i boxed it and through it under the plane. they didn't charge me anything because i had no other bags to check (i live out of a backpack). so now, that gold thang is in LA...a total piece of shit, but i love her.
pps. next post is her with me in SF...waaaaaaaaaa
later.means.never06.22.09 - 9:52 am
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Man, you are too late. This would have totally inspired me to bring my bike. As I have become to know the streets a little better I think it would be a blast to ride here, if I had the right bike. I have tried and deemed it pointless to buy a bike for the short time I am here. It is just not financially worth it...and anything that IS financially worth it is not worth actually riding. I did find the orange bike place...might go for a cruise around San Telmo.
I have seen 6 or 7 actual roadies here 3 of which were together and were on some sort of team just riding through the night. I ran to give them wolfpack stickers, but could not catch them. I see TONS of people riding everyday..just gettin to where they need to go. Yes it is more dangerous than LA, but so is New York and people ride there!
If I ever come here again I would bring a bike.
la duderina responding to a
comment by later.means.never
06.22.09 - 10:18 am
reply
yeah...you can grab the orange bike and ride around the nature preserve at the edge of puerto madera...it's a nice nature-y ride.
you should just give me a wolfpack sticker instead.
also, some tips...check out www.poesiaurbana.com
they have a lotta rad parties and shows listed there.
and if you get a chance, do me a favor and visit "la huerta orgazmika" and "la sala"...they're both in the caballito neighborhood. la huerta is a squatted organic garden that's absolutely beautiful...they host events there, workshops, shows, food not bombs (comida no bombas), etc...actually, a few years ago, we organized a big take back the streets/crit mass/anti-biofuels demonstration where we all road through the streets...we corked the widest street in the entire world!!!! 15 lanes. now that's corking!!! they're currently in a battle against the city who's trying to shut down the garden, so i don't know how much activity is going on right now, but check out the place nonetheless...here's their website: http://orgazmika.blogspot.com/
and you can search for "la sala" too...it's the centro cultural that's associated with la huerta. it's right around the corner. they too host events and workshops and shows and big meals and stuff...they have an open library and everything. rad spaces, rad faces.
there's a lotta good stuff in that city...so don't feel obliged to suffocate yourself in some big stupid boliche...unless, of course, that's what you're looking for.
-sean
later.means.never responding to a
comment by la duderina
06.22.09 - 2:23 pm
reply
fuck...la huerta's gone...after 8 years!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
fuck...
http://picasaweb.google.com/huertaorgazmika/HuertaOrgazmikaDestruccionDenunciaResistenciaApoyo#
later.means.never06.22.09 - 2:47 pm
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CHA! YES IVE BEEN THERE MY PARENTS ARE FROM THERE!
diego2706.25.09 - 10:22 pm
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how's it going down there, lindsay?
coldcut06.25.09 - 10:36 pm
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what always got me about BA is that the A is not as B as one might expect. It always had this hot and metallic/rubbery smell to it. beautiful city, don't get me wrong, but either it was all the construction, or they named her in a misleading manner.
profoscurity07.12.09 - 2:10 pm
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si, si, es verdad. Pero, yo creo que la A era B caundo la ciudad fue dado su nombre.
la duderina responding to a
comment by profoscurity
07.12.09 - 5:12 pm
reply
Also, Sr. Snider...I have your travel guide...it was ever, ever so helpful...let me know when/where would be the best time to return it to you.
la duderina07.12.09 - 5:14 pm
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Srta. Duderina, I am currently internetting at Holly's Coffee on 6th/Kenmore, where I can be found nursing my overpriced americano until 3am. I'll also be on this week's Passage of a Few People Through a Rather Brief Moment in Time ride, which starts at 3rd/New Hampshire on Tuesday at 9pm. If neither of those times work, we can keep playing forum tag until we figure something out. Or we could use the telephone. I can be reached in the 818 area code, prefix 744, number 6901.
nathansnider responding to a
comment by la duderina
07.12.09 - 11:19 pm
reply
That was a plug, if I ever heard one.
Joe Borfo responding to a
comment by nathansnider
07.12.09 - 11:26 pm
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asi grazie per la cultura. ya see, the family I stayed with when I went back to buenos aires was an old italian famiglia from the days of caminito. I don't speak much spanish, not a clue about castellan, ma, uno piu d'taliano. in this manner, one may enjoy the life of a KING in that country.
organic pampas raised steaks.
organic mendoza malbec.
beautiful Womens.
miniscule checks.
bike thru ancient bodega towns.
tango a la viruta with girls in gowns.
and stilettos,
thas how they do it in the ghettos.
We got down.
:)
profoscurity responding to a
comment by la duderina
07.13.09 - 12:50 am
reply
Oop,
From when this was written, you must have already gone.
Anyway I lived in Buenos Aires, and I am (half) Argentinian.
I think the best way to explain not to take your bike to BA is this:
My father loves to tell me the story of how the city of BA repaints the crosswalks often. Why do they do this, because its always getting stained with red.
Need i say more?
you wont be biking there-
Rafael-
brendanrafael07.14.09 - 4:07 pm
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ahhhh yess, a telephone -- old school, the only way to go. we shall be in touch.
@prof
your words make me miss it terribly. I must go back there, if only for the alfajores. and the men. damn, those argentine men. lawdy
la duderina responding to a
comment by nathansnider
07.15.09 - 9:32 pm
reply
-->
Ridazz Roulette!
er 
Had to.
Found me a bike! ....and some papacitos!